Vietnam Travel Diaries: Day 5 – The Hang Mua Challenge (or, How Not to Injure Your Knee at Sunrise)

Day 5 in Vietnam started with the kind of ambition you only have when you’re still jet-lagged: we set our alarms for 5 am, determined to catch sunrise from the top of Hang Mua (Mua Cave) viewpoint. The plan? Easy. Just a quick 500-step climb to one of Ninh Binh’s most breathtaking vistas. The reality? Well, let’s just say things got a bit more adventurous than we expected.

First off, these 500 steps are no joke. It’s not the height that gets you, it’s the steepness. Some of those steps are so high it’s like they were designed by a giant with a personal grudge against out-of-shape tourists. We powered through, hearts pounding, legs burning, and just a few meters before the summit—disaster struck. One wrong move, a loud crack from Andi’s left knee, and bingo: instant pain.

But hey, we’d come this far, and Andi (stubborn as ever) wasn’t about to let a little thing like a possibly busted joint stop him. Powered by adrenaline and maybe a bit of denial, he made it to the top. And honestly? The view was worth it. Ninh Binh’s patchwork of rice paddies and dramatic limestone peaks stretched out below us in the cool morning light. Even Andi, sweating and slightly panicked about the trip back down, agreed—this was exactly why we’d come here.

Getting down, though, was a whole other challenge. Turns out, steep steps are even less fun on a dodgy knee. By the time we reached the bottom, Andi was drenched in sweat and every step on flat ground brought a new wave of pain. Still, he kept his spirits up—because what’s a travel story without a little suffering, right?

Back at our homestay, we rewarded ourselves with a rooftop breakfast (yes, Andi managed one more flight of stairs—what a hero) and waited for our ride to Hanoi Airport. Da Nang was calling, but first we needed some medical help. Thankfully, a pharmacy at the airport had a spray that offered some relief. It wasn’t a miracle cure, but it was enough to get Andi on the plane without too much grumbling.

Now, as we sit at the gate in Hanoi, bags packed and knees braced, we’re reflecting on the morning. No regrets. Hang Mua was breathtaking—literally and figuratively. Andi might be a little worse for wear, but the experience is already a highlight of our trip.

Next stop: Da Nang! Fingers crossed for smoother adventures (and sidewalks). Good night from both of us, and stay tuned for more tales—hopefully with fewer medical mishaps.