Day 14: Phnom Penh by Night – River Strolls, Sunset (Sort of), and Chicken BBQ Cravings

Back in Phnom Penh! Day 14 started almost like Day 12, just in reverse. Same bags, same city streets, same tuk-tuk hustle—except this time, we’re older, wiser, and apparently still hungry for more adventure (and chicken BBQ). The best news? Andi’s stomach seems to have forgiven whatever culinary crime he committed in wherever, and both legs are still functioning after all those temple stairs and tuk-tuk jumps. Lizz, on the other hand, is bouncing around like she just came out of a shoebox—brand new sneakers and all. So, off we go!

As the sun started to dip, we called a Grab tuk-tuk—honestly, these things appear faster than you can say “Angkor.” Less than a minute later, we were buzzing through Phnom Penh’s early evening traffic, headed for the riverside and the famous Phnom Penh Night Market. Except, well, we barely had time to say “hello” to the night market before we found ourselves swept up in the current of the evening—literally.

Turns out, there’s always someone at the riverside ready to offer you a sunset cruise, and tonight, we were the perfect targets. Why not, right? The boat was supposed to leave at sunset, but Cambodia runs on its own time. We ended up waiting an hour for the boat to fill up, but honestly, we didn’t mind. After a couple of weeks on the road, taking it easy felt pretty good.

The sunset itself was nothing to write home about—just a gentle fade into dusk with the city lights flickering on, one by one. But the real magic happened once the sky went dark. Phnom Penh at night is a whole different beast. Sure, it’s not Bangkok’s riot of neon along the Chao Phraya, but there’s something special about seeing the city reflected on the waters of the Tonle Sap and the Mekong. Skyscrapers are sprouting everywhere, the city’s skyline changing almost before your eyes. At one point, the boat cut across the Mekong itself—our first time crossing this legendary river. We both went quiet for a moment, just soaking up the feeling of being somewhere both ancient and on-the-move.

Eventually, we docked back near the night market, our stomachs now growling louder than the engines of the passing tuk-tuks. Mission Chicken BBQ was back on. The Phnom Penh Night Market delivered—chicken, rice soup and Pad Thai Chicken and that smoky, street-food aroma you can only get in Southeast Asia (yes no chicken BBQ). We didn’t linger too long; tomorrow’s a big sightseeing day, and our feet reminded us they’ve already put in some serious overtime this trip.

So, that’s Day 14 for you—Phnom Penh by night, a not-so-sunset cruise, and a victorious return to solid food. Tomorrow: more temples, palaces, and probably more food. Stay tuned for Article 15.

Good night from the riverside! 🛶🍗🌃