Tea Hills, Kandy Nights and a Bus Ride from Hell: Back in Sri Lanka
With all the noise in the world lately — mostly created by old men who should know better — it was not exactly easy to stay focused on writing, and then, only a few weeks ago, my mother passed away.
Somehow, months passed, drafts stayed unfinished, photos disappeared into folders, and our latest Sri Lanka tour remained only a memory waiting to become a story.
So, finally, here it is.
This Sri Lanka trip was not planned very long in advance. But since we already know the country quite well, it was easy for us to decide where we wanted to go and where we wanted to stay. Sri Lanka is one of those places where we do not need a strict travel plan anymore. We know what we like: a little city life, some mountain air, tea plantations, cool evenings, tropical beaches, and of course a bit of chaos in between — because otherwise it would not be Sri Lanka.
This time our tour started in Kandy. After arriving in Sri Lanka, we spent the first night near the airport, which is always the easiest solution after a flight. Bandaranaike International Airport is not really in Colombo but closer to Negombo and Katunayake, and after a long journey we were not in the mood to continue straight into the hills. The next morning we ordered an Uber and started our transfer to Kandy.
The drive from the airport area to Kandy is already a nice introduction to Sri Lanka. First there is the busy traffic, the honking, the shops, the fruit stands, the tuk-tuks, and the usual feeling that everyone is somehow going in all directions at the same time. Then, slowly, the road starts to climb. The air becomes fresher, the landscape greener, and you feel that you are leaving the hot coastal lowlands behind.
Three nights in Kandy instead of only one
We had been to Kandy before, but strangely enough we had never stayed longer than one night. Kandy was always more of a stopover for us — arrive, sleep, maybe have a short walk, and then continue to somewhere else.
This time we wanted to change that. Three nights in Kandy sounded like a good idea because the city deserves more than just a quick look.
Kandy is one of Sri Lanka’s most important cities and was once the last royal capital of the island. Many visitors come mainly for the famous Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of the most sacred Buddhist sites in Sri Lanka. But since this was not our first visit, we did not feel the need to do the full tourist program again. No rushing from temple to viewpoint to souvenir shop. This time we simply wanted to walk, look around, drink tea, watch daily life, and get a better feeling for the city.
Our accommodation was high up in the surrounding hills: 360 Degrees Queens Mount Glen Heights. The name is quite a mouthful, but the location was beautiful. From up there we had great views over the roofs of Kandy, both during the day and at night.
At night, Kandy looked especially nice from above. The city lights were scattered over the hills, the lake area was glowing somewhere below, and the noise of the city felt far enough away to enjoy it from a distance. During the day, the view showed how Kandy is squeezed into the green hills, with houses climbing up the slopes in every direction.
The city itself is busy, but not in the same way as Colombo. There are crowded streets, buses, shops, small restaurants, bakeries, spice shops, schoolchildren, monks, and tuk-tuk drivers waiting for customers. Around the lake, things feel calmer. Kandy Lake is a good place for a stroll, even if the traffic is never very far away. The old colonial buildings, the famous Queens Hotel, the lake, and the hills together give Kandy a special atmosphere.
Back to the Botanical Gardens after more than 30 years
One thing I really wanted to see again was the Royal Botanical Gardens in Peradeniya. My last visit was in 1993, which sounds almost unreal now. More than three decades had passed.
The gardens are only a short drive from Kandy and are among the most famous botanical gardens in Asia. They were originally connected to the Kandyan kings and later developed further under British rule. Today they are huge, green, peaceful, and a perfect escape from the noisy streets of Kandy.
What makes the place special is not just one single attraction, but the whole atmosphere. Wide lawns, old trees, palm avenues, bamboo, orchids, tropical flowers, and giant trees that look as if they have been standing there forever. One of the most famous sights is the giant Javan fig tree, spreading its branches like a natural roof over a large area. There is also an orchid house, beautiful palm-lined paths, and many corners where you can simply sit and enjoy the shade.
For us it was nice to walk there without rushing. Botanical gardens are not places where you should hurry. You need time to notice small details: the shape of leaves, strange flowers, birds, fruit bats hanging in the trees, and the mix of local families, couples, school groups, and foreign visitors enjoying the place.
After the gardens we went for another stroll through Kandy itself. Not with a big sightseeing mission, but just following the streets and letting the city happen around us. Sometimes that is the best way to experience a place you have already visited before. You stop trying to “complete” it and simply enjoy being there.
Up into tea country
On our fourth day we left Kandy and headed further uphill into Sri Lanka’s beautiful highlands. The landscape changed quickly. The roads became curvier, the air cooler, and soon the hills were covered with tea bushes.
Our next stay was at the Glenloch Tea Factory Hotel, in the middle of tea country. The place had a very old-fashioned charm. It felt a little like stepping back in time — not polished luxury, not modern boutique style, but quiet, simple, and atmospheric.
We were the only hotel guests.
That can feel a bit strange at first, especially in a building connected to an old tea factory. Empty corridors, quiet evenings, no restaurant noise, no other travelers at breakfast — only us and the staff. But it also gave the place a very special feeling. It was peaceful in a way that busy hotels can never be.
There was no food option except breakfast, which we understood. If there are only a few guests, or sometimes maybe no guests at all, running a restaurant is not really profitable. Sri Lanka was also still dealing with difficult economic conditions, and outside the bigger tourist centers not everything works the way visitors may expect. But there were places reachable by tuk-tuk, so it was not a real problem.
The best part of staying there was the surrounding landscape. We loved wandering through the lush green hills and walking between the tea plantations. Tea country in Sri Lanka is unbelievably beautiful. The tea bushes cover the hills like a green carpet, following every curve of the land. Here and there you see tea workers, small houses, misty slopes, narrow roads, and sudden views into deep valleys.
And the climate was perfect. Mild, fresh, and not sweaty. After spending time in the lowlands or on the coast, the highlands feel like natural air-conditioning. You can walk without feeling exhausted after ten minutes. The light is softer, the air smells greener, and even a simple walk feels special.
This area around Glenloch and Ramboda is also known for waterfalls and tea factories. The famous Ramboda Falls are nearby, and the whole road between Kandy and Nuwara Eliya is one of the classic scenic routes in Sri Lanka. It is the kind of road where you want to stop again and again for photos — tea hills, waterfalls, mist, little shops, and viewpoints.
Lunch in Ramboda and the Sunday transport adventure
On our last day in that area we went to eat in Ramboda. We found a well-frequented place, which is usually a good sign. If locals and travelers both stop somewhere, the food is often fresh and decent. And yes, the food was good.
Getting back, however, was another story.
It was Sunday, and many drivers had taken the day off — not to relax, but to queue at one of the few petrol stations. Fuel problems were still part of everyday life, and I already wrote about that in my last blog post. In Sri Lanka, transport can be easy one day and complicated the next. You may have Uber, PickMe, tuk-tuks, buses, private drivers — and still suddenly find yourself standing at the roadside with no proper option.
So, we had no choice. We stopped a public bus.
Now, Sri Lankan public buses are an experience. They are cheap, colorful, loud, and sometimes decorated like a moving temple, disco, and racing car at the same time. The drivers often seem convinced that they are participating in a Formula 1 race, even when the road is narrow, full of curves, and going along a mountain slope.
Our ride was short, but long enough to remember.
The driver took every curve as if he wanted to test the limits of physics. And there were many curves. Too many. We were thrown around, holding on, laughing and suffering at the same time. It was probably the shortest ride ever that still managed to offer a realistic chance of whiplash.
Already slightly traumatized, we finally arrived back on the main road near our hotel. It was one of those typical travel moments that are not exactly enjoyable while they happen, but later become part of the story.
Sri Lanka has many beautiful scenic drives. Some of them are even more scenic when you survive them.
Nuwara Eliya: cool air, blue sky and High Tea at the Grand Hotel
Our next destination was Nuwara Eliya, where we stayed for three nights.
Nuwara Eliya is very different from most other places in Sri Lanka. It sits high in the central mountains, around 1,800 meters above sea level, and because of that the climate is cool and fresh. After the heat of the coast or the humidity of the lowlands, arriving there feels almost unreal.
The town is often called “Little England”, and you can understand why. During British colonial times, Nuwara Eliya became a hill station where the British escaped the tropical heat. Even today, there are still many traces of that period: colonial-style houses, old hotels, a golf course, gardens, a racecourse, and the famous red-brick post office that looks as if someone forgot to pack it when leaving England.
Of course, Nuwara Eliya is still very much Sri Lankan. The streets are busy, tuk-tuks are everywhere, the market is lively, and local restaurants serve rice and curry rather than roast beef. But the cool weather, the old buildings, and the surrounding tea plantations give the town a very special character.
We loved walking around the town and through the parks. The sky was wonderfully blue, the temperatures were pleasant, and it was nice to be outside without sweating all the time. You can walk around Victoria Park, visit the area near Gregory Lake, explore the town center, or simply enjoy the strange feeling of needing a jacket in Sri Lanka.
But our real highlight in Nuwara Eliya was something very British and very Sri Lankan at the same time: High Tea at the Grand Hotel.
The Grand Hotel Nuwara Eliya is one of the most famous colonial hotels in Sri Lanka. The building was originally known as Barnes Hall, the former residence of Sir Edward Barnes, who was Governor of Ceylon in the 19th century. Later it became a hotel, and today it still carries that old colonial atmosphere — with its manicured gardens, elegant façade, high ceilings, polished wood, old-world interiors, and that slightly faded but charming grandeur that fits perfectly into Nuwara Eliya.
Walking into the Grand Hotel feels a bit like stepping into another time. It is not just a place to sleep or eat; it is part of the town’s history. Over the years, the hotel has welcomed many important guests, including royalty, politicians, and other famous visitors. Among the names connected with the hotel is Queen Elizabeth II, who visited Sri Lanka during her reign, together with Prince Philip. Knowing that such people once walked through these rooms adds a little extra magic to the place — even if we were just there for tea and cake.
And what a tea it was.
High Tea at the Grand Hotel is probably one of the most famous experiences in Nuwara Eliya. It fits perfectly because you are sitting in the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea country, surrounded by cool mountain air, colonial architecture, and gardens that look almost too neat for the tropics. The whole setting makes you feel as if you should suddenly start speaking with a British accent.
The tea came with the usual High Tea pleasures: small sandwiches, cakes, pastries, scones, cream, jam, and of course a good cup of Ceylon tea. It was elegant without feeling too stiff, and for us it was the perfect way to enjoy Nuwara Eliya’s unique atmosphere. After walking around town and enjoying the parks and blue sky, sitting down at the Grand Hotel for High Tea felt like the right thing to do.
It was touristy, yes — but in the best possible way.
Sometimes these classic experiences are famous for a reason. You do not go there only because you are hungry. You go because of the setting, the history, the feeling, and the little moment of pretending you are part of an old colonial movie — without the uncomfortable parts of history, of course.
For us, the Grand Hotel High Tea became the highlight of our stay in Nuwara Eliya. It combined everything the town is known for: tea, cool weather, colonial history, gardens, and a touch of old-fashioned elegance.
Nuwara Eliya is also famous for vegetables, flowers, and strawberries. Because of the cooler climate, many things grow there that would not grow as easily in the hotter parts of the island. Around the market you see carrots, leeks, cabbage, potatoes, and all kinds of fresh produce from the highlands.
For us, the charm of Nuwara Eliya was not about rushing from one attraction to another. It was more about the atmosphere. Cool mornings, blue skies, colonial leftovers, tea estates around the town, slow walks through the streets, and one very memorable High Tea at the Grand Hotel.
After Kandy’s busy streets and Glenloch’s quiet tea hills, Nuwara Eliya felt like the perfect next chapter of the trip. It gave us time to breathe, walk, look around, and enjoy the highlands before continuing toward a completely different side of Sri Lanka: the beaches of the south.
Don’t miss part two.
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