Day 3: From Hanoi’s Bustle to Ninh Binh’s Tranquility—And a Lesson in FOMO

Our third day in Vietnam began with another enthusiastic alarm clock. Pick-up was booked for 6:30 am, but we were already in the hotel lobby at 5:45. Apparently we felt the driver might appreciate a welcoming committee. He arrived at 6:27, and we left Hanoi’s traffic behind for Ninh Binh.

By 8:30 we were at our guesthouse, with breakfast and a noticeably quieter setting. There was time to eat, but not to settle into doing nothing: we had a Trang An boat trip ahead. The countryside would have to wait a little longer for our undivided relaxation.

Trang An: Limestone Cliffs and a Very Hard-Working Rower

Our little sampan carried the two of us, another Vietnamese passenger and a woman doing all the rowing. For around two hours she propelled us through the waterways while we sat and admired the scenery. There are easier ways to earn a living than moving a boatload of visitors through this landscape. We certainly had the easier seats—at least in theory.

Limestone cliffs rose above the water, green vegetation clinging to their sides. We passed through low caves and past pagodas, with reflections stretching across the quieter stretches of water. The caves broke up the open views: suddenly the cliffs were overhead, and watching the ceiling became rather more important than composing the perfect photograph.

Trang An is more than a scenic boat route. UNESCO lists the wider landscape complex for both its natural and cultural value. Cave archaeology records human activity extending back more than 30,000 years, while the protected landscape also includes villages, temples and the ancient capital of Hoa Lu. That is quite a lot of history behind a peaceful afternoon on the water.

My back, meanwhile, had its own opinion of the wooden bench. I kept shifting around, trying to find a more comfortable position. Two hours of sitting still can sound restful until you actually try it. One look at our rower was enough to put my complaints into perspective, though.

Bai Dinh Pagoda: When FOMO Strikes Back

After the boat trip, a rest sounded sensible. Lizz was still fighting a cold, and I was tired and ready for food. Then our driver suggested Bai Dinh Pagoda. We could have said, “That sounds lovely, perhaps another time.” Instead, fear of missing out took over and we said yes.

Bai Dinh is a vast Buddhist complex of halls, statues and courtyards, with electric carts helping visitors cover the distances. It deserved more energy than we had left. We walked around, took photographs and gradually realised we were looking at an impressive place through a fog of tiredness. Another sight on the itinerary is not always another sight properly enjoyed.

A Well-Deserved Massage

Back at the hotel, we opted for a massage. After the early start, the boat bench and the walking, it was a welcome pause. We finished the day feeling more human, without pretending that a massage had magically cured Lizz’s cold.

Travel Lesson of the Day

Trang An had been a highlight. Adding Bai Dinh on the same day made sense on paper, but our energy levels had failed to read the programme. Next time, I would leave more space between the two. A temple does not become less interesting because you visit it tomorrow.

The plan for the following day was more time in Ninh Binh, perhaps a bike ride and definitely a slower pace. The weather had its own contribution to that plan.

FOMO means “fear of missing out”. We were learning that missing a nap can be a considerably more immediate problem.