by From our April 2025 travel diary. After our very sleepy first day in Hanoi, a proper night’s sleep made quite a difference. The appetite, however, needed no recovery time.
Breakfast in the Old Quarter
We woke at 5 am after a deep, much-needed sleep. My first words were, “I’m hungry!” No lengthy discussion about the day’s cultural programme, then. Breakfast first. We found a little place serving steaming pho, and afterwards the smell of fresh baguettes drew us towards a banh mi stand. A bowl of noodles followed by a filled baguette: apparently we had booked ourselves onto the two-breakfast plan.
Tran Quoc Pagoda by West Lake
With breakfast—and its sequel—taken care of, we took a Grab car to Tran Quoc Pagoda by West Lake. The fresh air and lakeside setting felt a world away from the busy Old Quarter. We wandered among the bonsai trees and lotus ponds, with the red pagoda rising above it all. After the rush of arriving in Hanoi, this was a welcome change of pace.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and a Coffee Stop
From there we walked towards the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. The scale of the monument and the neatly kept gardens give the place a very different atmosphere. This is somewhere to slow down and be respectful. Ho Chi Minh’s preserved body is housed inside the mausoleum; our photographs below also show the Presidential Palace and the guards outside. For anyone planning a visit, check the current visiting arrangements rather than assuming it is open every day.
After that much walking, a small café and a glass of cà phê sữa đá—Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk—were very welcome. Sweet coffee, cold ice, a seat: sightseeing has its little rewards. Another round of history looked considerably more manageable afterwards.
The Temple of Literature
The Temple of Literature was one of our favourite stops in Hanoi. Gardens, shaded paths and courtyards gave us plenty to linger over, even with other visitors around. It is the sort of place where a little background makes what you are looking at much more interesting.
The temple was founded in 1070, and the imperial academy followed in 1076. Dedicated to Confucius, the complex became a centre of learning. Its stone tortoises support stelae recording successful scholars and imperial examinations; the tortoise symbolises wisdom and longevity. The five courtyards lead through different parts of the complex, rather than simply repeating the same view. Vietnam Tourism explains the history and courtyards here.
Suddenly those stone turtles are much more than something to photograph. Centuries of studying and examinations sit behind them. We had arrived fortified by coffee and two breakfasts, which felt like quite enough preparation for our own modest educational ambitions.
Our Train Street Encounter
By mid-afternoon we were back at Train Street, and this time we saw the train pass. The closeness of the buildings made it a memorable—and rather nerve-racking—part of the day. This describes our April 2025 experience, not a recommendation to enter the railway corridor. Access rules can change: follow barriers and staff instructions, and stay clear of the tracks. I have added a current-access note to our first Hanoi diary.
One Last Evening in Hanoi
At the time of writing, we were packing for an early departure to Ninh Binh the next morning. Before that, the plan was one last wander through the Old Quarter after dark. Busy streets, evening lights and possibly another banh mi. Clearly, the breakfast programme had left room for an encore.
Hanoi had given us a wonderfully busy couple of days: lakes, temples, coffee, history and a fairly determined approach to eating. Next came a change of scenery. You can follow the rest of our journey in the travel diaries.
Discover more from Lizz and I
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.