Day 3: From Hanoi’s Bustle to Ninh Binh’s Tranquility—And a Lesson in FOMO

If Hanoi wakes you up with its horns and energy, Ninh Binh is like a gentle nudge to slow down and breathe. Our day started criminally early—pick-up at 6:30 AM, though we were down in the lobby at 5:45, caffeine levels dangerously low and anticipation high. The van, punctual to the minute, scooped us up at 6:27. We were the early birds, but in Vietnam, it seems everyone’s an early bird.

By 8:30, we were at our guesthouse in Ninh Binh, greeted with a quick breakfast and the kind of countryside calm that makes you want to forget your phone exists. But there was no time to linger—our Tran An boat tour awaited.

Trang An Boat Tour: Limestone Magic and Rowing Wonders

Trang An is often called the “Halong Bay on land,” and honestly, it lives up to the hype. We hopped into a tiny sampan, just the two of us, a young Vietnamese plus our incredible rower—a woman in her late fifties, spry and strong, who put us to shame with her stamina. These women row for hours, ferrying groups of tourists through emerald rivers and under caves. Some even row with their feet (seriously, YouTube it).

For two hours, we drifted past towering limestone karsts draped in jungle vines, slipped through pitch-black caves (where you duck or lose your hat to the ceiling), and passed ornate pagodas nestled on tiny islands. The water is glassy, reflecting the cliffs and sky, and every so often, you spot goats perched impossibly high, grazing like it’s no big deal. It’s peaceful, otherworldly, and a little surreal.

In between admiring the view, I quietly sympathized with Andi, who was shifting around trying to find a position that didn’t make his back scream. Sitting on those wooden benches for two hours is not for the faint of heart—or spine. Still, we were reminded we had the easy job every time we looked at our rower.

Bai Dinh Pagoda: When FOMO Strikes Back

After the boat, all we wanted was to crash. Lizz was fighting off a cold, and I might have been hangry. But our driver, perhaps sensing our “must-see-everything” tourist vibe, enthusiastically suggested Bai Dinh Pagoda. Cue the travel FOMO. We said yes.

Bai Dinh is Vietnam’s largest Buddhist complex, famous for its towering gold Buddha, hundreds of serene stone statues, and endless halls. It’s vast—think golf carts to get around—huge. I wish I could say we explored every corner, but we were running on fumes. We shuffled through the courtyards, snapped a few obligatory photos, and realized our tiredness was making everything blur together. Sorry, Bai Dinh. You deserved better from us.

A Well-Deserved Massage

By the time we returned to the hotel, our bodies had officially filed a complaint. The solution: a local massage. It was exactly what we needed. The aches of the wooden boat faded, Lizz’s cold retreated a little, and we ended the day feeling human again.

Travel Lesson of the Day

If I learned anything, it’s that sometimes less is more. Trang An was magical, and had we just stopped there, we’d have ended with a perfect memory. Next time, we’ll listen to our bodies (and maybe pack cushions for those sampan seats).

Tomorrow: more Ninh Binh, maybe a bike ride, and definitely a slower pace.

Tip: Don’t let FOMO dictate your itinerary—sometimes, a nap is the best sightseeing option. (FOMO = Fears Of Missing Out)

Fun & Useful Facts About Ninh Binh

1. “Halong Bay on Land”:

Ninh Binh is often called “Halong Bay on land” because of its dramatic limestone karsts rising out of lush rice paddies and winding rivers. Think Halong Bay, but with emerald fields instead of water!

2. Hollywood Came Here:

Parts of the 2017 film Kong: Skull Island were filmed in Ninh Binh, so you might recognize those epic landscapes—minus the giant apes.

3. Row, Row, Row… with Your Feet?:

Boat tours in Tam Coc and Trang An are rowed by local women (and men) who often use their feet instead of hands to row! It’s mesmerizing to watch and makes for great photos.

4. Trang An vs. Tam Coc:

Both offer scenic boat rides, but Trang An is less crowded, has more caves, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tam Coc is more intimate, with boats gliding through rice fields (especially beautiful in late May/early June during harvest).

5. Bai Dinh Pagoda:

This is the largest Buddhist temple complex in Vietnam—and Southeast Asia! The place is huge, with giant Buddha statues, towering pagodas, and peaceful courtyards.

6. Mua Cave (Hang Múa):

Climb 500+ steps to the top for a jaw-dropping panoramic view of the Tam Coc valley. The dragon statue at the summit is Insta-famous, but the climb is no joke—bring water and take your time.

7. Local Life:

Ninh Binh’s villages are some of the most authentic in Vietnam. Staying in a homestay lets you experience real rural life—water buffalo crossings, friendly locals, and home-cooked meals.

8. Biking Heaven:

The flat terrain and stunning scenery make biking around Ninh Binh a dream. Rent a bike and cruise past rice paddies, temples, and sleepy villages.

9. Goat Meat Delicacy:

Don’t be surprised to see goat (dê) on the menu—Ninh Binh is famous for it. If you’re feeling adventurous, try it grilled or in a hotpot!

10. Ancient Capital:

Hoa Lu was Vietnam’s ancient capital in the 10th and 11th centuries. You can visit the old temples and imagine what life was like over a thousand years ago.

11. Easy Escape from Hanoi:

Ninh Binh is only about 2 hours from Hanoi by train or bus, making it a perfect day trip or overnight getaway from the busy capital.

12. Peaceful Pace:

Unlike the big cities, Ninh Binh is all about slowing down—nature, quiet, and super friendly locals. It’s Vietnam’s answer to “the countryside retreat.”