If Hanoi wakes you up with its horns and energy, Ninh Binh is like a gentle nudge to slow down and breathe. Our day started criminally early—pick-up at 6:30 AM, though we were down in the lobby at 5:45, caffeine levels dangerously low and anticipation high. The van, punctual to the minute, scooped us up at 6:27. We were the early birds, but in Vietnam, it seems everyone’s an early bird.
By 8:30, we were at our guesthouse in Ninh Binh, greeted with a quick breakfast and the kind of countryside calm that makes you want to forget your phone exists. But there was no time to linger—our Tran An boat tour awaited.
Trang An Boat Tour: Limestone Magic and Rowing Wonders
Trang An is often called the “Halong Bay on land,” and honestly, it lives up to the hype. We hopped into a tiny sampan, just the two of us, a young Vietnamese plus our incredible rower—a woman in her late fifties, spry and strong, who put us to shame with her stamina. These women row for hours, ferrying groups of tourists through emerald rivers and under caves. Some even row with their feet (seriously, YouTube it).
For two hours, we drifted past towering limestone karsts draped in jungle vines, slipped through pitch-black caves (where you duck or lose your hat to the ceiling), and passed ornate pagodas nestled on tiny islands. The water is glassy, reflecting the cliffs and sky, and every so often, you spot goats perched impossibly high, grazing like it’s no big deal. It’s peaceful, otherworldly, and a little surreal.
In between admiring the view, I quietly sympathized with Andi, who was shifting around trying to find a position that didn’t make his back scream. Sitting on those wooden benches for two hours is not for the faint of heart—or spine. Still, we were reminded we had the easy job every time we looked at our rower.
Bai Dinh Pagoda: When FOMO Strikes Back
After the boat, all we wanted was to crash. Lizz was fighting off a cold, and I might have been hangry. But our driver, perhaps sensing our “must-see-everything” tourist vibe, enthusiastically suggested Bai Dinh Pagoda. Cue the travel FOMO. We said yes.
Bai Dinh is Vietnam’s largest Buddhist complex, famous for its towering gold Buddha, hundreds of serene stone statues, and endless halls. It’s vast—think golf carts to get around—huge. I wish I could say we explored every corner, but we were running on fumes. We shuffled through the courtyards, snapped a few obligatory photos, and realized our tiredness was making everything blur together. Sorry, Bai Dinh. You deserved better from us.
A Well-Deserved Massage
By the time we returned to the hotel, our bodies had officially filed a complaint. The solution: a local massage. It was exactly what we needed. The aches of the wooden boat faded, Lizz’s cold retreated a little, and we ended the day feeling human again.
Travel Lesson of the Day
If I learned anything, it’s that sometimes less is more. Trang An was magical, and had we just stopped there, we’d have ended with a perfect memory. Next time, we’ll listen to our bodies (and maybe pack cushions for those sampan seats).
Tomorrow: more Ninh Binh, maybe a bike ride, and definitely a slower pace.
Tip: Don’t let FOMO dictate your itinerary—sometimes, a nap is the best sightseeing option. (FOMO = Fears Of Missing Out)
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